| Priming Issues | |
|
+5gamewizard Fulminata Wildeyedjester bsimon DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM 9 posters |
|
Author | Message |
---|
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 17th May 2010, 12:57 pm | |
| - Wildeyedjester wrote:
-
You really shouldn't hold it against an individual for not knowing that its just normal primer with a GW label on it! Generally I'd agree, but when its the owner of the store that says this the best stuff on the market and don't buy the cheaper stuff I have to say it kind of miffs me a bit. I understand its a business and you have a bottom line, but I've been in CHG asking about paints because mine were dried out and instead of giving me the run around about how I had to buy the newest GW paint I was informed about the Hobby Lobby product that fixed it. In response to that little bit of financial sacrifice I ended up buying my Land Raider Redeemer from CHG. When I go into a store and claim I don't know what I'm doing and need help while speaking with the owner I expect some level of knowledge. Guess I'm just mad a t myself for getting suckered into a $15 can of primer that jacked up my Marines that now have to spend more money on to clean and re-prime. I'll get over it......at some point | |
|
| |
gamewizard Castle House Games Manager
Posts : 954 Join date : 2009-06-16
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 18th May 2010, 3:15 am | |
| As the manager of CHG; I do not claim to have personal knowledge of every product I have. I have many different types of products and my level of intelligence isn't that good. I do have many smart people that I have tried to surround myself with that have higher levels of intelligence and much more knowledge than I (such as Fulminata, Nachos, Phantom, and Haren) so maybe that makes me have a little more common sense than most store owners. I know my limitations and I try to make sure CHG's customer are taken care of as best as possible.
As a gamer and hobbyist I do have my own opinions about how things work, but I try to emphasize that my opinions may stink just as badly as the next person's.
I have tried all the cheaper Krylon spray primers and I despise them. I have had nothing but trouble from them in the regards as to the same problem Death had on the slight clumping of various parts of your models. In my opinion; GW's sprays are far superior and they are formulated to cover smaller detail more efficiently than the cheap sprays. I have been told this as well by my GW reps, but they are out to take my money; I realize that.
I absolutely love the new AP gear and the price on the plain black primer is $3 cheaper than GW's black spray primer. Their other colors are the same price as GW's but they are; well, colored primers as opposed to black or white.
Nachos turned me on to the Testors Acrylic airbrush cleaner and thinner bottles; I just use them for brush paint as well. I have had a little problem of putting too much thinner in a pot, but that was operator error.
I recognize the guys here have much superior knowledge than I regarding various crafting details and have produced gorgeous armies with their knowledge but I still have my own opinions that sometimes differ from the other guys here.
No problem; I have always marched to a different drummer than most everybody else.
One thing I do know; I never want to try to take advantage of any of my customers and I always want to try to be sure they are at least satisfied that I tried to help them as best I could. The Intranets is harsh competition for mom and pop stores like mine, so service after the sale is the only thing I have going on the internet sales. I will never be able to match most internet stores' prices.
I am sorry for the problem you had at the other shop you visited. I would have tried to show you all your options and tried to show you how to use the primers as best I could. Short, quick bursts about 6 to 8" away from your spray target are what I do and I have had a lot of luck doing that method. Of course; I have a nice little custom made indoor paint area that I try to utilize when no customers are in so as to reduce the gag-out for them.
Come on in to CHG when you have a chance. If I am not there, either Nachos or Phantom can advise you on paint techniques. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 18th May 2010, 7:24 am | |
| - gamewizard wrote:
- As the manager of CHG; I do not claim to have personal knowledge of every product I have. I have many different types of products and my level of intelligence isn't that good. I do have many smart people that I have tried to surround myself with that have higher levels of intelligence and much more knowledge than I (such as Fulminata, Nachos, Phantom, and Haren) so maybe that makes me have a little more common sense than most store owners. I know my limitations and I try to make sure CHG's customer are taken care of as best as possible.
As a gamer and hobbyist I do have my own opinions about how things work, but I try to emphasize that my opinions may stink just as badly as the next person's.
I have tried all the cheaper Krylon spray primers and I despise them. I have had nothing but trouble from them in the regards as to the same problem Death had on the slight clumping of various parts of your models. In my opinion; GW's sprays are far superior and they are formulated to cover smaller detail more efficiently than the cheap sprays. I have been told this as well by my GW reps, but they are out to take my money; I realize that.
I absolutely love the new AP gear and the price on the plain black primer is $3 cheaper than GW's black spray primer. Their other colors are the same price as GW's but they are; well, colored primers as opposed to black or white.
Nachos turned me on to the Testors Acrylic airbrush cleaner and thinner bottles; I just use them for brush paint as well. I have had a little problem of putting too much thinner in a pot, but that was operator error.
I recognize the guys here have much superior knowledge than I regarding various crafting details and have produced gorgeous armies with their knowledge but I still have my own opinions that sometimes differ from the other guys here.
No problem; I have always marched to a different drummer than most everybody else.
One thing I do know; I never want to try to take advantage of any of my customers and I always want to try to be sure they are at least satisfied that I tried to help them as best I could. The Intranets is harsh competition for mom and pop stores like mine, so service after the sale is the only thing I have going on the internet sales. I will never be able to match most internet stores' prices.
I am sorry for the problem you had at the other shop you visited. I would have tried to show you all your options and tried to show you how to use the primers as best I could. Short, quick bursts about 6 to 8" away from your spray target are what I do and I have had a lot of luck doing that method. Of course; I have a nice little custom made indoor paint area that I try to utilize when no customers are in so as to reduce the gag-out for them.
Come on in to CHG when you have a chance. If I am not there, either Nachos or Phantom can advise you on paint techniques. Thank you for the great offer! And again it's your personal customer service that convinced me to the Redeemer from CHG instead from those Chaos tainted Intrawebs you speak of. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 24th May 2010, 9:08 pm | |
| **Shameless Self Promotion Alert**
I've updated my blog with my current primer removal status. Let me know what you think! | |
|
| |
Dahtay Squig with flatulence
Posts : 30 Join date : 2010-04-12
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 26th May 2010, 9:55 am | |
| I'm not exactly sure where you live but there's a place in Alma Arkansas (about 20 minutes north of Fort Smith) called "A-Z" (the "tools" building) where you can buy pretty much any brand name of spray paint (Including primer) for $1.00/can as many as you want. They always have literally 6 palettes about 4-feet high of boxes of random colors and brands of spray paint. That's where I buy all of my spray primer. I spent 15$ about 2 months ago on 15 cans of white primer of diffirent brands and still haven't run out (and I've painted 100 points worth of Warmachine minis). They also sell all types of respirators for surprisingly cheap, I bought a one-canister negative pressure respirator with nose to hair goggles for $10.00. If you're not sure yet if it's worth the trip there are about 6 diffirent buildings in A-Z, each about the size of a small grocery store and each with a diffirent theme. I've bought TONS of things for making terrain and painting there and saved a whole lot of money. I used to live on Beaver Lake in Rogers and I would make a special trip all the way to Alma once every few months just to shop there. Also the very best thing I've found for stripping models is non-diluted Pine-Sol. Simply soak the model/s in it for about 24 hours and then scrub them off with an old tooth-brush. Works every time. Hope this helps and good luck with your priming! | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 26th May 2010, 11:07 am | |
| I live in Fayetteville and have actually heard of the place. Can't I just take 59 to get down there?
I may try that Pine-Sol trick if I don't have any luck tonight.
Good to see you back! | |
|
| |
Dahtay Squig with flatulence
Posts : 30 Join date : 2010-04-12 Age : 37 Location : Fort Smith, AR
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 26th May 2010, 4:11 pm | |
| - DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM wrote:
- I live in Fayetteville and have actually heard of the place. Can't I just take 59 to get down there?
I may try that Pine-Sol trick if I don't have any luck tonight.
Good to see you back! You could take 59 there but honestly if you just get on I-540 in Fay-town and head South it takes you right through Alma. Googlemaps says: Ark-59 from Fay-Alma = 53 Minutes | I-540 From Fay-Alma = 40 Minutes (Here's a link to the directions there from Fayetteville on 540.) - Fayetteville to A-Z Alma The Pine-Sol thing works amazingly well, I've tried simple green, gasoline, etc. and Pine-Sol is by far my favorite. (But I may also be partial to it because I absolutely love the smell.... ) Good to see me back? I didn't know I went anywhere?! | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| |
| |
Dahtay Squig with flatulence
Posts : 30 Join date : 2010-04-12 Age : 37 Location : Fort Smith, AR
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 27th May 2010, 8:50 am | |
| Yeah, I tend to lurk more than actually contribute. =P
and who doesn't love the smell of Pine-Sol?! Ahh, takes me back to a far simpler time before swiffers and those automatic vacuuming robots. Back when you had to fill your sink full of chemicals and use one of those $8.00 slop-mops that covered your floor with puddles. | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 2:00 pm | |
| - DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM wrote:
- I live in Fayetteville and have actually heard of the place. Can't I just take 59 to get down there?
I may try that Pine-Sol trick if I don't have any luck tonight.
Good to see you back! If you use Pine Sol on plastics, let me know if any detail survives. I'll be surprised. I put 20 models in Castrol GT Super Clean last night, and most of the primer is already gone. | |
|
| |
Fletch Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 167 Join date : 2009-06-21
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 2:04 pm | |
| I'm a big fan of purple stuff degreaser just have to be careful bc it can burn your skin | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 6:21 pm | |
| I had to use a brush on 6 of 18 models, and I suspect that is because they were too tightly packed. I had to throw 1 metal model in Pine Sol (I think I coated the hell out of him with sealant, years and years ago). I threw them in yesterday, gave the jar a swirl after a couple hours and again this morning. I only brushed paint off edges of weapons and 2 belts (crevices where they were touching other models, basically). If you're having to scrub and scrub, I suspect you have the wrong product to clean them off. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 7:21 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- I had to use a brush on 6 of 18 models, and I suspect that is because they were too tightly packed. I had to throw 1 metal model in Pine Sol (I think I coated the hell out of him with sealant, years and years ago). I threw them in yesterday, gave the jar a swirl after a couple hours and again this morning. I only brushed paint off edges of weapons and 2 belts (crevices where they were touching other models, basically). If you're having to scrub and scrub, I suspect you have the wrong product to clean them off.
Did it cause any issues with your plastic models? I may try this tonight if it didn't damage your models. | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 9:33 pm | |
| None at all. Pine Sol will destroy plastic though. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 9:41 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- None at all. Pine Sol will destroy plastic though.
I'm confused. It didn't hurt your place models, but it will destroy them? Is it just a matter of how long they soak? Mine have been in the Super Clean for about a week and a half now and I have 15 of the 60 pieces cleanish. Meaning they still have paint on it, but are prime-able. So I guess my question is this, can I soak my plastic models in pine sol overnight and get the paint off with out damaging the plastic? | |
|
| |
Kragg Ork Boy without teef
Posts : 83 Join date : 2010-05-27
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 9:44 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- I had to throw 1 metal model in Pine Sol.
| |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 9:58 pm | |
| If it's been in there that long I suspect you have the incorrect type. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 30th May 2010, 10:42 pm | |
| I'm using Super Clean (The purple stuff). If anyone has other suggestions at this point I'm open to anything. | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 12:58 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- None at all. Pine Sol will destroy plastic though.
I really can't stress this part enough. That one metal model I soaked in Pine Sol, I didn't think to remove the base from. I had to destroy a shop rag getting the plastic off my fingers from 10 hours in Pine Sol; paper towels shredded trying to get the stuff off, and my fingers are still a little black. The topcoat came off pretty well, at least. The same 10 hours, in plastic, and of the last 12 models I stripped, I had to use a brush on 1. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 1:53 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- bsimon wrote:
- None at all. Pine Sol will destroy plastic though.
The same 10 hours, in plastic, and of the last 12 models I stripped, I had to use a brush on 1. This sounds as if you used Pine Sol on 12 models for 10 hours and they turned out great. Am I misreading this? If so what did you use? | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 2:16 pm | |
| Let me clarify exactly:
Castrol GT Super Clean for plastics. Pine Sol for metals if the Super Clean doesn't work (because cleaning the metals afterwards takes forever).
I don't know exactly what you're using, aside from "purple stuff". I do know I sent the wife to Wal-Mart one day for degreaser and she brought back a bottle of brake fluid in a purple container, and it didn't work too well. Degreaser should be clear fluid in a purple bottle. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 5:32 pm | |
| This is what I'm using. | |
|
| |
bsimon Chaos Daemon Prince
Posts : 540 Join date : 2009-06-10
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 9:05 pm | |
| I bought some tonight and I'll compare. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 31st May 2010, 9:31 pm | |
| - bsimon wrote:
- I bought some tonight and I'll compare.
Thanks! I emptied mine and added a fresh dose just to see what happens. | |
|
| |
RetroPengo Chaplain and a book full of sermons
Posts : 263 Join date : 2010-02-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 2:24 am | |
| Pine Sol mixed with water in a 50/50 solution will not harm plastic models for up to 8 hours of soak time. possibly 12 based on what I've read. I had it work perfectly on 2 metal models though at full concentration.
50/50 pine sol/water will get cloudy-white for a little while. It's just what pine sol does in water. After 8 - 12 hours it will start softening up the plastic though.
Also, get super cheap brushes. I had to use 3 as they actually became caked with the old paint and wouldn't scrub any more off. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 3:05 am | |
| - RetroPengo wrote:
- Pine Sol mixed with water in a 50/50 solution will not harm plastic models for up to 8 hours of soak time. possibly 12 based on what I've read. I had it work perfectly on 2 metal models though at full concentration.
50/50 pine sol/water will get cloudy-white for a little while. It's just what pine sol does in water. After 8 - 12 hours it will start softening up the plastic though.
Also, get super cheap brushes. I had to use 3 as they actually became caked with the old paint and wouldn't scrub any more off. I may be left to a 50/50 shot if the second soak doesn't work?!?!?!? | |
|
| |
gamewizard Castle House Games Manager
Posts : 954 Join date : 2009-06-16 Age : 62 Location : Springdale, Fayetteville
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 3:15 am | |
| From what you showed me, I think you are fine. At this point, reprime and see how a few minis look.
Keep it in perspective, it's your first attempt. Everyone learns by mistakes. | |
|
| |
RetroPengo Chaplain and a book full of sermons
Posts : 263 Join date : 2010-02-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 3:25 am | |
| I concur. your models looked good to go. Use Army Painter. | |
|
| |
DEATHWATCH CONUNDRUM Lesser Daemon with visions of grandeur
Posts : 166 Join date : 2010-04-25 Age : 44 Location : Fayettenam
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 7:31 am | |
| - RetroPengo wrote:
- I concur. your models looked good to go.
Use Army Painter. Thanks guys. Since you've both seen them I trust you. | |
|
| |
RetroPengo Chaplain and a book full of sermons
Posts : 263 Join date : 2010-02-25
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues 1st June 2010, 12:41 pm | |
| I would be happy to show you a good way to use your primer. Let me know a time and place that works for you. I'm a fair hand with army painter at this point or if you want to use something cheaper, you certainly can. | |
|
| |
Sponsored content
| Subject: Re: Priming Issues | |
| |
|
| |
| Priming Issues | |
|