Priming Issues

So I finally got started priming my Space Marines but I ran into some powdering issues.

Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated!

Shake the can more.
Spray when it's not super humid (good luck on that, lately).
Spray closer to the minis.
Use shorter bursts, don't soak the minis.

I tried all of that, expect the humidity part.........the joys of Arkansas.


Any thoughts on fixing the powdering. Parts of the primer are coming off when rubbed.

Strip it in Castrol GT Super Clean, let it soak, rinse it all off, and reprime.

bsimon wrote:

Strip it in Castrol GT Super Clean, let it soak, rinse it all off, and reprime.

Motor Oil? How long should it soak for?


This is really intriguing and complicated all at once!

Ok so I've done some research and it's not motor oil. My bad.

But there has to be an better way than stripping the whole model just for a couple of small spots. Just the cost in primer alone is enough to scare me away from that at $15 a can.

Can I just sand the flaky parts and then reprime? Again I'm learning all of this as I go, but is that an option?

1. BigD has had luck with simple green for stripping

2. You should not be using $15.00 primer.

See these links below:
http://www.thehogsofwar.com/2010/03/cheap-and-effective-non-gw-white-primer.html
http://www.thehogsofwar.com/2010/03/cheap-gw-spray-alternatives.html
http://www.thehogsofwar.com/2009/04/my-favorite-black-primer.html

White Primer - Sealer - Black Primer

All for under $4.00 a can.

Oh, by the way I've had the dusty bubbling issue before too. Mine is always due to not enough shaking and/or a faulty spray tip. I've never had any luck getting a primer to spray normally after it has sprayed bad like that. Usually the tip is somewhat clogged, the best I can tell.

And that's why I shouldn't trust the local hobby store. It's the GW Primer.


So stripping is the only option? I was hoping for plan B!

Stripping is the best option. Anything else and you run a high risk of having all your later work go to waste as the underlying primer continues to peel.

You're probably best off going with the cheapest spray primer you can find. As long as it's actually primer, and in the shade you want, then you should be good. As far as I'm concerned, the only reason to go with more expensive primers is in order to get more color options (like with the army painter series). Sealers are a different issue, but you're a bit away from needing those yet.

Thanks to a combination of price increases and changes in formula, I'd recommend staying away from all GW spray paints.

We do a lot of painting at my store and can offer a few tips. I would have talked to you and tried to steer you towards the new Army Painter products, myself.

Not trying to knock any of the guys here on the boards. I have been painting on an off since 1976 and have tried lots of different methods. Most of the guys' stuff here looks much better than my paint jobs but that doesn't mean that my advice and experience aren't worth listening to. Not to mention Nachos and Phantom, both whom are better painters than me.

Personally I am very impressed with Army Painter and I like it over the paint job I did with my Aztec Airbrush.

Everybody has their own method of painting. No offense meant but your main problem with your priming was most likely operator error. Which is to be expected as a beginner.

Never paint out doors is one prime piece of advice. Too many wind variables and the humidity is a killer. I always prime out my back hallway near the bathrooms and open the door going outside every once in a while to let the hallway air out.

*shrugs*

Up to you, trust whom you will, but knocking your local hobby shop might be a bad idea.

Chris and I agree on a lot of things painting-wise, but I have to disagree with him on the Army Painter advice. Not that it isn't a great product, it is, but it's also very tricky to use properly, especially for a beginner. For a beginner I still recommend the cheapest primer you can find for two reasons: one is that if you mess up you haven't wasted a lot of money, and two is that cheap primer can actually be easier to use than the more specialized expensive stuff.

I also have to disagree with the advice about not painting outdoors. I agree that it's much easier to achieve a quality paint job in a controlled environment, but unless you have a very large indoor area (such as the hallway in Chris' shop), specialized ventilation (such as a spray booth), and/or a filter mask, it can be quite dangerous to do it indoors. That said, doing it outdoors right now simply isn't an option. It's far too humid.

Well, I considered myself a beginner regarding their spray cans and the difference between the airbrush job I did on my Crusader/Redeemer as a primer vs the job I did using the Army Painter was absolutely phenomenal to me.

Then again, I am easily impressed.

gamewizard wrote:

We do a lot of painting at my store and can offer a few tips. I would have talked to you and tried to steer you towards the new Army Painter products, myself.

Not trying to knock any of the guys here on the boards. I have been painting on an off since 1976 and have tried lots of different methods. Most of the guys' stuff here looks much better than my paint jobs but that doesn't mean that my advice and experience aren't worth listening to. Not to mention Nachos and Phantom, both whom are better painters than me.

Personally I am very impressed with Army Painter and I like it over the paint job I did with my Aztec Airbrush.

Everybody has their own method of painting. No offense meant but your main problem with your priming was most likely operator error. Which is to be expected as a beginner.

Never paint out doors is one prime piece of advice. Too many wind variables and the humidity is a killer. I always prime out my back hallway near the bathrooms and open the door going outside every once in a while to let the hallway air out.

*shrugs*

Up to you, trust whom you will, but knocking your local hobby shop might be a bad idea.

You weren't the local hobby store owner that gave me that advice.

So basically I need to go to Wally World and buy the cheapest primer they've got.

Get some super clean and some gloves. Soak and the scrub then wash, rinse and repeat? Should I do this with everything I primed yesterday, just to be safe?


Sadly my only choice is to prime outside. We rent the house we're in and I can't afford to get spray paint stains on the garage floor, not to mention the lack of ventilation.


Well this was definitely a learning experience, though sadly it's been a bit deflating.

If you have an old toothbrush, you will want to throw that into the mix of your cleaning supplies, just don't use it to brush your teeth again .

Don't get too discouraged. Problems with priming are probably the #1 issue that new painters run into.

gamewizard wrote:

Well, I considered myself a beginner regarding their spray cans and the difference between the airbrush job I did on my Crusader/Redeemer as a primer vs the job I did using the Army Painter was absolutely phenomenal to me.

Then again, I am easily impressed.

I agree with you, the Army Painter sprays are better and easier to use than an airbrush, but then I wouldn't recommend a new painter use an airbrush to prime either

That's what's frustrating.....it's not thw whole model that's jacked up its just a tiny section. Generally near the base of the model.

Ugh!!!!

Any chance someone might be down at CHG on Thursday night around 6 that would be willing to help me prime these???

gamewizard wrote:

Personally I am very impressed with Army Painter and I like it over the paint job I did with my Aztec Airbrush.

Agreed. For colored primers and dips you can't beat Army Painter.

Tamiya spray acrylics are also very good for a basecoat. I used Tamiya purple for my tau. It is about 6.00 a can, but you only get about 1/3 of what is in the Army Painter Can. Littleboyblues also uses the Tamiya sprays - there is more colors to choose from than Army Painter

Air brushes also have their uses for inks, basecoats, and taped applications beyond a spray can. They really aren't for priming though.

From a simple product review stand point though, there isn't much of a difference between GW and Walmart brand primers. Be careful though to try the products listed in the links. Some of the primers and sealers we tried were less than good. Just be aware, GW primer used to cost under 8.00 a can back in 1994. Most people used it initially and just stuck with it.

You really shouldn't hold it against an individual for not knowing that its just normal primer with a GW label on it!

Wildeyedjester wrote:

You really shouldn't hold it against an individual for not knowing that its just normal primer with a GW label on it!

Generally I'd agree, but when its the owner of the store that says this the best stuff on the market and don't buy the cheaper stuff I have to say it kind of miffs me a bit. I understand its a business and you have a bottom line, but I've been in CHG asking about paints because mine were dried out and instead of giving me the run around about how I had to buy the newest GW paint I was informed about the Hobby Lobby product that fixed it. In response to that little bit of financial sacrifice I ended up buying my Land Raider Redeemer from CHG.

When I go into a store and claim I don't know what I'm doing and need help while speaking with the owner I expect some level of knowledge. Guess I'm just mad a t myself for getting suckered into a $15 can of primer that jacked up my Marines that now have to spend more money on to clean and re-prime. I'll get over it......at some point

As the manager of CHG; I do not claim to have personal knowledge of every product I have. I have many different types of products and my level of intelligence isn't that good. I do have many smart people that I have tried to surround myself with that have higher levels of intelligence and much more knowledge than I (such as Fulminata, Nachos, Phantom, and Haren) so maybe that makes me have a little more common sense than most store owners. I know my limitations and I try to make sure CHG's customer are taken care of as best as possible.

As a gamer and hobbyist I do have my own opinions about how things work, but I try to emphasize that my opinions may stink just as badly as the next person's.

I have tried all the cheaper Krylon spray primers and I despise them. I have had nothing but trouble from them in the regards as to the same problem Death had on the slight clumping of various parts of your models. In my opinion; GW's sprays are far superior and they are formulated to cover smaller detail more efficiently than the cheap sprays. I have been told this as well by my GW reps, but they are out to take my money; I realize that.

I absolutely love the new AP gear and the price on the plain black primer is $3 cheaper than GW's black spray primer. Their other colors are the same price as GW's but they are; well, colored primers as opposed to black or white.

Nachos turned me on to the Testors Acrylic airbrush cleaner and thinner bottles; I just use them for brush paint as well. I have had a little problem of putting too much thinner in a pot, but that was operator error.

I recognize the guys here have much superior knowledge than I regarding various crafting details and have produced gorgeous armies with their knowledge but I still have my own opinions that sometimes differ from the other guys here.

No problem; I have always marched to a different drummer than most everybody else.

One thing I do know; I never want to try to take advantage of any of my customers and I always want to try to be sure they are at least satisfied that I tried to help them as best I could. The Intranets is harsh competition for mom and pop stores like mine, so service after the sale is the only thing I have going on the internet sales. I will never be able to match most internet stores' prices.

I am sorry for the problem you had at the other shop you visited. I would have tried to show you all your options and tried to show you how to use the primers as best I could. Short, quick bursts about 6 to 8" away from your spray target are what I do and I have had a lot of luck doing that method. Of course; I have a nice little custom made indoor paint area that I try to utilize when no customers are in so as to reduce the gag-out for them.

Come on in to CHG when you have a chance. If I am not there, either Nachos or Phantom can advise you on paint techniques.

gamewizard wrote:

As the manager of CHG; I do not claim to have personal knowledge of every product I have. I have many different types of products and my level of intelligence isn't that good. I do have many smart people that I have tried to surround myself with that have higher levels of intelligence and much more knowledge than I (such as Fulminata, Nachos, Phantom, and Haren) so maybe that makes me have a little more common sense than most store owners. I know my limitations and I try to make sure CHG's customer are taken care of as best as possible.

As a gamer and hobbyist I do have my own opinions about how things work, but I try to emphasize that my opinions may stink just as badly as the next person's.

I have tried all the cheaper Krylon spray primers and I despise them. I have had nothing but trouble from them in the regards as to the same problem Death had on the slight clumping of various parts of your models. In my opinion; GW's sprays are far superior and they are formulated to cover smaller detail more efficiently than the cheap sprays. I have been told this as well by my GW reps, but they are out to take my money; I realize that.

I absolutely love the new AP gear and the price on the plain black primer is $3 cheaper than GW's black spray primer. Their other colors are the same price as GW's but they are; well, colored primers as opposed to black or white.

Nachos turned me on to the Testors Acrylic airbrush cleaner and thinner bottles; I just use them for brush paint as well. I have had a little problem of putting too much thinner in a pot, but that was operator error.

I recognize the guys here have much superior knowledge than I regarding various crafting details and have produced gorgeous armies with their knowledge but I still have my own opinions that sometimes differ from the other guys here.

No problem; I have always marched to a different drummer than most everybody else.

One thing I do know; I never want to try to take advantage of any of my customers and I always want to try to be sure they are at least satisfied that I tried to help them as best I could. The Intranets is harsh competition for mom and pop stores like mine, so service after the sale is the only thing I have going on the internet sales. I will never be able to match most internet stores' prices.

I am sorry for the problem you had at the other shop you visited. I would have tried to show you all your options and tried to show you how to use the primers as best I could. Short, quick bursts about 6 to 8" away from your spray target are what I do and I have had a lot of luck doing that method. Of course; I have a nice little custom made indoor paint area that I try to utilize when no customers are in so as to reduce the gag-out for them.

Come on in to CHG when you have a chance. If I am not there, either Nachos or Phantom can advise you on paint techniques.

Thank you for the great offer! And again it's your personal customer service that convinced me to the Redeemer from CHG instead from those Chaos tainted Intrawebs you speak of.

**Shameless Self Promotion Alert**

I've updated my blog with my current primer removal status. Let me know what you think!

I'm not exactly sure where you live but there's a place in Alma Arkansas (about 20 minutes north of Fort Smith) called "A-Z" (the "tools" building) where you can buy pretty much any brand name of spray paint (Including primer) for $1.00/can as many as you want. They always have literally 6 palettes about 4-feet high of boxes of random colors and brands of spray paint. That's where I buy all of my spray primer. I spent 15$ about 2 months ago on 15 cans of white primer of diffirent brands and still haven't run out (and I've painted 100 points worth of Warmachine minis).

They also sell all types of respirators for surprisingly cheap, I bought a one-canister negative pressure respirator with nose to hair goggles for $10.00. If you're not sure yet if it's worth the trip there are about 6 diffirent buildings in A-Z, each about the size of a small grocery store and each with a diffirent theme. I've bought TONS of things for making terrain and painting there and saved a whole lot of money. I used to live on Beaver Lake in Rogers and I would make a special trip all the way to Alma once every few months just to shop there.

Also the very best thing I've found for stripping models is non-diluted Pine-Sol. Simply soak the model/s in it for about 24 hours and then scrub them off with an old tooth-brush. Works every time. Hope this helps and good luck with your priming!